Hidden Treasure: XVII Century wine bar-restaurant archive in Old Tbilisi
While walking through the old streets of Tbilisi, one can easily spot a large medieval structure next to the Sioni Cathedral. Qarvasla, an ancient bazar and caravansary, was built during the reign King Rostom in the XVII century. Qarvasla is more than three centuries old and has a rich history and culture. The aura of that era can still be felt today in the walls of the caravansary, but with delicious traditional snacks and wine. The wine museum and wine bar Restaurant Archive will bring you back to the 19th century Tbilisi, with a nostalgic and pleasant vibe. Georgian chef Levan Kobiasvili has researched historical books, travelled to Georgian regions and villages and collected old receipts for traditional dishes and snacks. He then created the exquisite variations of his signature plates and snacks (khemsi).
Chef Levan Kobiashvili, and the best sommelier Jaba Dimistarishvili have teamed up to offer restaurant guests an opportunity to experience hundreds of Georgian wines in different varieties and Khemsi. They can also learn the subtleties of the taste of traditional Georgian wines and traditional Georgian snacks.
Georgian khemsi contains organic ingredients that are grown and harvested in local farms throughout the country.
The wine bar and restaurants offer both Georgians and foreign guests the chance to experience the Georgian traditions of Nadimi through various theatrical performances.
Jaba Dzmistarishvili points out that the focus of “Archive” is Georgian wines. The entire collection of wines is made up of Georgian classics, kvevri, and planted wines. Each wine has its own history (province), so the wine tour will allow visitors to discover not only Tbilisi, but also the entire Georgia. You will also find rare old wines in the “Archive”.
How many wines do you have in your cellar?
We have 550 varieties of grape wines and are working to increase this number. We want to make the most of our existing selection and offer a variety of options to our guests. It is possible to make a new wine variety, but it may not meet the criteria. The wines are first tasted and then ranked according to the results of the tasting. Some are then eliminated. Not all wines meet our standards.
What criteria are you using?
Organoleptic properties are the main focus.
We know that wine in your restaurant costs less than in other restaurants. How do you differentiate yourself from your competitors, besides the price?
Our concept is not limited to a restaurant. There is also a wine shop and a museum. Even in the restaurant, wine prices are very low. Our restaurant wine is available at retail prices. This is a rare phenomenon on the Georgian market. Our restaurant offers a much larger selection of wines and, of course, Levan Kobiashvili’s cuisine.
What else can you offer to the customer besides wine tasting and purchase to help them get to know Georgian wine culture.
We have a wine-museum, where we present to guests the history and culture of the wine along with historical artifacts. We also offer wine tastings where guests can sample wines from around the world.
You will be the one to serve the wine with khemsi. What is the speciality of serving wine along with khemsi?
In general, a chef and sommelier will pair wines with dishes. The wine shouldn’t ruin the dish, and the dish shouldn’t overpower the wine. The matching is crucial. Food or wine should not be wasted. Levan and myself are sitting down and matching different wines with various dishes. This is the menu that was created.
What kind of wine goes with what type of khemsi, please?
Our Khemsi Boards, for example, include Ghandzili and Nutty Pkhaleuli. Western Churi wine, which is a bit full-bodied and relatively acidic, goes well with nutty dishes. We can also serve a full-bodied wine with a board of Georgian Khamoni or Georgian Ham. We can choose the perfect menu for any wine.
How would you rate your experience working with Levan?
He gives me a great deal of freedom in the kitchen. I have the best master chef in Georgia, and we can do a lot together. You can’t change the wine because it is already bottled and formed. But we can change specific ingredients to complement the wine.
By Mariam Bokeria
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