Bring your best camera and be prepared to see some of the lesser-known natural and manmade wonders.
TSALKA MUNICIPALITY
Tsalka, a quiet town with many development prospects, is located in the middle of a volcanic basin, on the edge of Tsalka Reservoir. This reservoir was created for energy generation in the mid-20th Century. It’s only two hours away from Tbilisi. It has a colorful history. Germans, Greeks and Azerbaijanis, as well as Georgians from Adjara, Svaneti and Adjara, have all settled here to farm the fertile volcanic soil (the main crop is potatoes) or to herd cattle or sheep. This creates a mixed community that is made up of Orthodox Christians as well as Muslims. The Tsalka Mosque, which serves up to 2000 people every Friday, is a sight to behold. It was built by Adjarans, and from the outside it looks like a normal house. However, inside, the mosque is bursting with the vibrant colors of Islam. The best place to see the German heritage is in Trialeti (also known as Alexandershilf), which has a Lutheran Church and high-garetted homes built between the early 19th century and the mid-20th. Their German style blends with local design.
Dashbashi Canyon is located just outside Tsalka. In autumn, it is a multi-colored wonderland whose river is accessible via a steep, winding path in good weather. A glass footbridge will be built for future visits.
Be sure to visit the small church high above the gorge and explore the gravestones carved with personalities (try to spot the standing horse and the seamstress!). This vantage point is also great for taking photos of the canyon, as well as Dashbashi Village.
Beshtasheni Waterfall is also worth seeing, located north of Tsalka Reservoir. It’s a smaller canyon than Dashbashi but equally beautiful.
The Soviets planted pine trees on the edge of the basin to try to balance out the harsh, barren terrain.
At 1506 m, the Tsalka Reservoir is 33.7 km2, with a maximum depth of 25 meters. When the Soviets decided on the reservoir, two villages were flooded. At low water levels, you can still see the steeple and roofs of many houses. Georgia’s answer, for those willing to brave the cold weather, to Atlantis? The river-fed reservoir makes for a great spot for water-based sports like fishing.
Follow the rocky left embankment above the river. Climb down four meters when you reach the giant white waterpipe. It is impossible to miss. Turn right. Keep your back to the rock face and you’ll find your first petroglyphs about 20 meters into the hike. A second set will be a few meters further. Why are the directions so complicated? There are no descriptions or signposts!
The petroglyphs are believed to be 7,000 years old. They were tested in Soviet times. The petroglyphs feature deer, including a deer calves that is being fed by its mother, hunters with bows and arrows, as well as, strangely enough, camels. If the dating is correct then we can only assume that this ancient artist was influenced by the sight of traders traveling on camels along the Old Silk Road.
It is up to you to decide if it is a genuine petroglyph or modern graffiti.
The Oliangi Vauclusian spring (also called “Berta”), is a pilgrimage site in the village of Oliangi. The small monastery is located in a courtyard with a wall, but the people are not interested in that. They want to see the stone pool where a family “sacred trout” lives and breeds, never leaving the pool, even though they can freely access the stream below. The water is said to have curative properties for believers.
NINOTSMINDA MUSICIALITY
Paravani Lake, located 2,073 meters above sea level, has a surface of 37.5km2 and is fed by underground springs and rivers. It is shallower than Tsalka Reservoir at a maximum depth of 3.3m and freezes in winter to a half-meter depth. Paravani, like the reservoir, is said to contain a mysterious structure in its depths. This one is thought to date back to the Bronze Age.
In the village of Poka (also called Foka), a group renowned nuns produce the best cheese in Georgia. Their shop also sells a range of bio sweets and skin creams as well as handmade souvenirs such cloisonne and decorative candles.
At 2,100 meters above the sea level, the lakes of Madatapa & Bughdasheni offer photographers and bird watchers a wealth of opportunities. A large number of migratory species stop off to rest during their long journey.
You can also contact the Javakheti protected areas rangers if you need help or advice.
Stop at Gorelovka, a village in Georgia, on your way there (or back). Visit the house-museum for the Dukhobors. They are a Russian emigrant group of strict sectarian and pacifist Christians. There are only 100 of them left. The house is easy to identify with its blue painted wood details and grass roof. There are many others in the village of this style.
The main building has a meeting room (with two separate doors, one for the men and one for the women, on the left and right), benches all around, and examples of the sewing that the girls do, such as scarves, cushions and the like.
The community funds their own maintenance. So, head to the door of central two-floor tower and put two Laris into the hole.
What else can I see and where can I stay?
This is only a small part of the treasures that this region has to offer. Explore the many ruined fortresses and lakes, mud-tracked villages, churches, and Natural Park areas on foot, by bicycle (as most of the terrain in both municipalities is flat), by 4×4, or by 4×4. For more information, visit the Javakheti Visitor Center near the town of Akhalkalaki in Martuni or ask around Tsalka. Due to the mixed heritage of many residents, especially in Ninotsminda, they may not speak or understand Georgian. The main language spoken here is Russian, but the government is constantly working to better integrate the settlers with Georgian culture.
You can find guest houses in the larger towns and locals may be willing to host you in a village. However, be aware that neither guest houses nor homes will have heating for the bedrooms. There are a few hotels in Tsalka that offer rooms with heating and en-suite bathrooms.
This region is known for its cold climate. It can be chilly, even in summer, when the wind blows. But it is also home to some of Georgia’s most beautiful landscapes, historical sites, and opportunities to become one with nature.
Acknowledgement
Thank you CENN and ENPARD for allowing me to explore this beautiful area of Georgia. They also do a great job of training, funding and supporting essential development projects, Local Action Groups, and bringing local minds and hands together to improve local communities.
Katie Ruth Davies, author and photographer
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