Designers participating in Berlin Fashion Week 2023, unlike Balensiaga’s Georgian-born designer Demna Gavasalia who was recently heavily criticised after the scandal over his latest campaign featuring children and bondage bears, focus on true values such as sustainability, environmental awareness, fair pay for everyone, up-cycling and slow fashion, rethinking consumer attitudes, and rethinking the consumer’s attitude.
The theme of this year’s Berlin Fashion Summit, “Active Alliances for Positive Fashion”, was sustainability. It addressed the topics of collaboration and transformation, as well as regeneration, with regards to economic, cultural, and ecological action in the fashion industry.
The Berlin Fashion Summit is a hub where leaders share ideas and signals to help fashion undergo the necessary transformations on a corporate level and culturally. The 5th Berlin Fashion Summit focused on “Regenerative Business”, and “Regenerative Cultural”, and how they cannot be separated if the fashion industry is to make a positive impact.
Nick Ericsson, CEO and co-founder of UGG, presented on Regenerative agriculture at scale. He shared the challenges and successes of his brand’s newest sustainable endeavor. Katya Kruk, from Armed Angels and Manuel Schweizer from Oceansafe, to name a few, gave presentations on different perspectives of implementing innovative materials and business practices.
The Yes Men took over Berlin Fashion Week and staged Adidas’ supposedly revolutionary Reality Wear Collection. This was a game-changer with its new attitude to raise awareness about the appalling working conditions in its textile factories. Vay Ya Phoan, a Cambodian model, was asked to walk the catwalk. She was once employed at an Adidas textile plant in Cambodia, but as a journalist and whistleblower, she publicly denounced its appalling conditions. In a solemn ceremony, it was announced that Adidas had allegedly appointed her as co managing director. She signed the “Pay Your Workers Agreements” with Bjorn Guldens, CEO of Adidas.
Bad Bunny contributed to the REALITYWEAR collection launched at Berlin Fashion Week. Instead of the usual cool and glamour, models stumbled, crawled and stumbled down the runway in torn and run-down Adidas outfits. Make-up was replaced with skin abrasions, and the Adidas logo was “branded” into the cheeks. Vay Ya Nak Phoan, a Cambodian, said that while the three Adidas stripes represent cool and sport in Europe, they are synonymous with prison bars for her and her people.
The VORN Fashion Show featured dynamic and inspiring looks from famous brands as well as pieces from Berlin-based designers and independent brands. The carefully chosen outfits, including pieces by Vladimir Karaleev and DSTM as well as Isabel Vollrath, #Damur and others, spoke volumes of the Berlin style, which is characterized by carefreeness, freedom, and experimental clothing design. Berlin’s signature style is non-conventional and focuses on individuality. Vladimir Karaleev’s jackets, dresses, and tops are characterized by assimetrical forms, unexpected incisions and material and fabric contrasts. They are all inspired by architectural shapes and have a functional purpose. DSTM bodywear is made from ecological fabrics and designed with pieces that flatter and accentuate natural body lines, while giving shape and comfort. It can be worn as outerwear, swimwear or underwear. Berlin-based Therapy’s pieces impressed with their innovative use and unconventional color combinations of used garments. They also had a philosophy that aims to change consumerist fashion trends by creating something new from used materials. MLI by Svensson showcased strong pieces with elegant detailing, strict silhouettes, and an authentic aura. They also placed a focus on creating fashion that is long-lasting without damaging the environment. The VORN Fashion Show featured the best in sustainable fashion from around the world, curated and presented in an editorial format. The concept of VORN was based on diversity and collaboration in order to reflect the current zeitgeist. The studio MM04 team conducted a sustainability audit on all participating brands.
VORN has chosen to focus this season on the theme ‘Role Models.’ Role models are essential for inspiration and guidance in a world of uncertainty about the future of politics and society. The VORN Fashion Show uses role models to inspire the looks on the catwalk. The VORN Fashion Show researched current and former role models, influential personalities, and presented different perspectives on style and fashion, reflecting sexuality and sustainability.
#Damur is all about unconventional, non-standard forms of style. He also presented a separate runway show for high-end streetwear in the St. Elisabeth Church, in Berlin’s Old City Center. The use of vibrant luminous fabrics, bold cut-outs in the shape of hearts, and the skillful use of fabrics to almost sculpt human bodies from materials are just some of the details that #Damur uses. Patchwork-like patterns and ornamental elements were carefully combined in harmony. The show was made special by the decorative elements, the impressive color combinations, and the abundance flowers. The brand uses eco-friendly materials and sustainable design practices. All collections are produced in Poland under fair wages and ethical working conditions. The # logo represents the voice of each individual in clothing. It is a new generation’s way of self-expression. Damur (Shih -Shun) Huang is the designer behind this brand. He is creative, but also resilient. His collections challenge stereotypes and gender categories.
Astro Noir Lab, the mixed reality presentation of Esther Perbandt’s new collection in the Art Library of Berlin State Museums was one of the highlights of Berlin Fashion Week. Esther Perbandt, whose sustainability is a priority, began collaborating with FFB/Fashion for Biodiversity. They produce chips that digitally visualise the supply chain and origins for the materials used in Esther Perbandt’s clothing. Astro Noir Lab featured a digital fashion show that included elements of 3D virtual reality, projections and other technologies. The vast dark hall at the Kulturforum was brought to life by holographic projections. Mysterious light dots and stripes were projected onto clothes. An electrifying soundtrack accompanied her opulent collection of robes and tops in all shades and shades of black. She played with transparency and the opacity in materials. Fabrics were arranged in cascades to evoke baroque dresses. Some tops resembled geometric conic shapes, which imitated natural forms or exotic plant life. The bodies clad in these fairytale looks looked surreal and dreamy. The holographic projections were in constant motion, giving the presentation an atmosphere of authenticity. A daring experiment that was inspired by the rich tradition of fashion history preserved in the Berlin State Museum Art Library. Esther Perbandt’s works are in a dynamic dialogue with the Museum’s collection of costumes, since fashion history is a major part of her work.
There is a new generation of creative Georgian designers who are active both online and offline, and continue to inspire and influence us, regardless of where they live. Lasha Mdinaradze is a creative director at the GUDU brand in Kyiv, which was founded in 2015. GUDU’s mission is to empower women through beautifully tailored looks that emphasize femininity. Mdinaradze’s designs are self-sufficient and do not require any accessories to complete the look. GUDU garments are a beautiful way to adorn the female body with their strong shapes and eye-catching silhouettes.
Lasha Mdinaradze says, “The woman is the center of my attention.” “I want to create outfits that show her power, personality, and passion at the same time.”
GUDU’s earlier collections were inspired by Kyiv, the Ukrainian capital. The music, art, and style of Kyiv’s streets are combined. Prints referring to Malevich’s works meet with vintage jeans, and the brand’s signature tailoring is given new facets by the play of volume. The designer has not covered the faces of the models in the new collection for the first time. This is because the collection’s main goal is to search for individuality. Mdinaradze’s looks are incredibly vibrant and feature clear shapes, bold geometric silhouettes, zipper details, pleated fabric, belts, as well as extra long trousers that elegantly wrap the body. GUDU’s latest collection has been featured in German Vogue November 2022. It has received international acclaim.
By Lily Furstenow
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