Back to Spring: Etseri and Svaneti  

AI

I have been driving season forward each time I visit . This is a place that hardly has winter and spring starts while Upper Svaneti still has a lot of snow. Finally, I can say that we have caught . The only snow on our land is a small patch of about x 2 m located behind the barn. It accumulated there, off the roof and away from the sunlight, but only now, as the temperatures at night are above freezing, is it melting. In a few days, what was once tens or even hundreds of tons will be gone. The area on the north of the house has already disappeared, but the barn portion was higher than me, so it took longer. The land has been flowing with meltwater and rainfall, turning our backyard into a temporary swamp, as it always does. It’s a good thing there is hay and other vegetation that has roots to hold the soil in place, otherwise it would all wash out. There is still a lot to do, especially while the clayey soil is still the softest. Before the sun bakes the ground, we have to hoe the areas where we want to plant flowers and vegetables, and clear the land around the raspberry canes. We then add some manure to make them richer. We have enough manure to last us for a long time. We will then plant: potatoes and corn, pumpkins and cabbages. Tomato seedlings from Kakheti are coming soon. Onions, garlic, herbs and all kinds of flowers for beautification. All small-scale, but plenty of work. We don’t need to eat these things or sell them to survive. They’ just extras. I can turn rose petals into liqueur or jam. This year, I will be making elderflower liqueur. Fencing is an important renovation task after the winter’s ravages. The fence posts will have moved, or risen, many of them. They must be pounded down again, while the ground is soft. We must replace any that are rotten. Wire and fence slats must be maintained, as well as fence slats. Twist the wire into small knots at certain points. Cows are always on the move and always hungry for green grass. Barbed wire is used to discourage them from “testing” fences. I beat them as hard as possible with a heavy stick on their way out to make sure they know that this is only pain. I hope there is no permanent damage, but that it will serve as a lesson and something to remember. Some fence sections are shared between us and our neighbor. Negotiation is the way to go: I’ll renovate this fence, you can renovate it next. The slats of some sections have lichen on them from years of use and will need to be replaced eventually. It must be done or else the Beasts will enter and ravage. I recruit an extra pair hands to help with the fencing as it is best done by two people. The fence post is held in place by one person while the other pound it in with a heavy sledgehammer. Otherwise, it will wobble and the hammer needs to be used with two hands, because it’s so heavy. If we need to make new posts, use one hand to hold the post and the other with the axe to sharpen the end. After we’ve pounded in the posts, I also beat the ground all around to make it as hard and dense as possible. We pay a resident who has lived here for many years and works for his host family to cover room and board. He and I get on well and it gives me a chance to practice my Russian which has been neglected for years. After being cooped-up indoors for months, it’s refreshing to get out and work the land and feel some sun and fresh air. After 9 years, I know what to do, which is also good. Season is here.Tony Hanmer, who has lived in Georgia and Svaneti for over a decade, has been a writer and photographer at GT since 2011. He runs the “” Facebook group, now with nearly 2000 , at www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenaissance/He and his wife also run their own guest house in Etseri: www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svanetiBLOG by Tony HanmerTags: EtserispringSvanetiTony Hanmervillage life

 

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