In 2011, I boldly declared that Georgia’s tourism would not be dominated by impersonal hotels, but rather cozy guesthouses. My travels have confirmed this belief. The warm, family style hospitality that is so deeply ingrained into Georgian culture provides tourists with unforgettable experiences.
The larger hotels can, on the contrary, feel impersonal and less genuine. It can be difficult to maintain high standards unless the owner is personally involved, or if there is a decent general manager who cares.
Due to the welcoming atmosphere and affordable rates, guests of family-run guesthouses and hotels are more tolerant towards minor service imperfections. It’s for this reason that I have always chosen to stay in guesthouses and smaller family hotels on my Georgian adventures.
My travels through Georgia this summer have confirmed my belief that the heart and soul of Georgian hospitality is in its families. Staying with locals is a unique experience, whether it’s in a cozy guesthouse or a bustling homestay.
Stay in Ghvirishi
Take, for instance, the enchanting village Ghvirishi. It is nestled in a gorge near a massive waterfall. We spent two unforgettable days in this village as guests of Manona. She is a schoolteacher and also runs a charming guesthouse located in an apple orchard among mountains and vineyards.
With the help of a few assistants, this modest and soft-spoken hostess cooks breakfasts, lunches and dinners using products from her farm. She will serve you crispy chicken, cheese, honey, exotic jams and her own wines. You can enjoy a full tasting at Manona’s of local products such as wine and chacha. Tklapi and dried fruits are also available.
Manona preserves the memory and history of her ancestors by offering a large collection of family documents that date back to the middle of the 19th century. These include diplomas and tax declarations as well as correspondence with different authorities. There is a small wheat museum on the grounds of the guesthouse, where visitors can learn that Ghvirishi was the birthplace of 5 endemic varieties! It is especially interesting for children to see how bread is made and what tools the villagers use.
Ghvirishi’s tranquility, seclusion and beauty – natural and human – impressed us. We didn’t wish to leave, except to come back to visit Manona and her fairytale village.
Hospitable Lentekhi
We had a Portuguese water dog with us when we traveled through Lechkhumi. We were relieved when we found Lentekhi in Lower Svaneti after searching unsuccessfully for accommodation in Tsageri. It is impossible to find a place with a dog.
Lower Svaneti in Georgia is a hidden jewel. This is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and experience a more authentic life. This region is straight out of a fantasy and offers the chance to experience the warm hospitality of the Caucasus.
Our salvation was the “Svaneti”, a guesthouse. Zakro and Giuli were the most welcoming people in Lentekhi. They welcomed us with our four-legged friend into their home without any problem. True, during our visit their cats were placed under “house-arrest.”
Since 2008, Zakro and Giuli have been running a guesthouse. The second floor is fully equipped for a guesthouse. They showed us a small room with all amenities and even a private bathroom and mini-refrigerator. There were other rooms available in the corridor, for every budget and taste. Two shared bathrooms were also available. The house was immaculate and in order.
The spacious terrace (aivani in Georgian) is large enough to accommodate a variety of social activities, even on a rainy or drizzly day. There are hammocks hanging, a sofa, armchairs and beds for those who prefer to sleep outside. Our sleep was still heroic, even though we were not sleeping on the balcony. Our host explained that in the evenings, the cool mountain breeze descends from the mountains and crosses the river flowing past the house. It then reaches our windows. Morpheus is the secret of Lentekhi.
The warmth and openness shown by the hosts was the most memorable thing for us. Zakro and Giuli were warm and kind. As if we were their family, they immediately fed us “whatever God sent.” On that day, God sent a hearty soup called chikhirtma, a salad with tomatoes and cucumbers from their garden, crisp apples from the orchard, and fragrant coffee and cookies. You know how we were able to climb one of the local peaks.
The conversation flowed naturally and easily over dinner. Our hosts told us that Giuli was a teacher. It is because of this that she has a beautiful, expressive voice and speech. Giuli is a safe place to learn Georgian. Zakro, an ex-police colonel, spoke with glowing eyes about his adventures on the mountains. A trophy, a bearskin on the wall, served as a memory of one of Zakro’s most memorable adventures. He also proudly spoke of his daily workouts at the horizontal bar, and his mountain runs. A real colonel, in full combat readiness.
We ate at a local restaurant located in the forest along the riverbank. We tried the main dish of Svan Cuisine: kubdari beef pie!
The hostess served us an omelette in the morning with spicy tkemali, ajapsandali and fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. She also prepared an original dish, which Giuli called chiji-pyzhi (scrambled egg with vegetables and rice).
We were so moved by this warm, welcoming home that we couldn’t resist the temptation of staying there another night on our return from Upper Svaneti. We were again greeted by a deep, peaceful sleep. This seems to be a local attraction.
Racha: A Calm Oasis
Three unexpected villages are hidden in the mountains of Racha: Glola, Chiora and Gebi. These villages are located high in the mountains, far from the fertile valleys with vineyards that characterize most of Racha. They are relatively unknown, except for the most adventurous of travelers. Some people are intimidated by the wild, untamed environment and lack of infrastructure. A good road now connects these villages and makes them more accessible.
Chiora is my favorite of all these places. Chiora, a picturesque, bright and welcoming village, is nestled on a cozy slope of the mountain just after crossing the Rioni River’s last major bridge. My friend’s family is from this village. However, none of her relatives still live there.
A New Sustainable Retreat in Chiora village
A family-run eco friendly mini-hotel opened its doors recently in Chiora. It seamlessly blends into the tranquil village’s ambiance. The hotel can accommodate up to 26 guests and offers a personalized service by its eight friendly and attentive staff.
The expansive grounds of the hotel offer a tranquil escape into nature. The lush lawns, flowering gardens and hammocks shaded under ancient trees creates a peaceful atmosphere. Each room offers panoramic views of the Racha mountains which are often shrouded by mist or even snow.
This area offers more than just scenic beauty and comfortable accommodation. It also has a wide range of activities. Guests can go on hiking adventures, explore surrounding wilderness or relax with a good book on the terrace. The evenings are filled with delicious food from the local area at the restaurant on site or social gatherings in the covered outdoor space.
All interiors are made entirely of wood. The rooms are modern, spacious, and clean. One of the staff members shared with pride that her husband had personally crafted the wooden elements at the hotel.
The warm and inviting atmosphere created by the hotel staff with love and care, left us truly captivated. The warm welcome and exceptional customer service left us truly impressed.
Our recent stay in Chiora capped off a wonderful summer. The hospitality of the country has improved dramatically, and it is now able to provide travellers with some truly unforgettable experiences.
By Tatjana Montik
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