**Winter Arrives in Kakheti**
The winter season has officially started in Svaneti, with below-freezing temperatures at night. While the early snowfall in Etseri has melted, Ushguli remains white and cold.
As we travel back to Tbilisi and then visit my mother-in-law in Kakheti, we notice a change in temperature. The village of Leliani has also changed – its street is now officially named Galaktion Tabidze Street.
**Roadworks Cause Headaches**
But not all the changes are pleasant. We were shocked to see that the good asphalt road between Gurjaani and Leliani was being torn up and re-done, despite it being reasonably new. It’s unclear why this was necessary, especially since elections have already passed.
Meanwhile, the short stretch of road between our street and Apeni village remains unpaved and in a disastrous state. We can’t help but grind our teeth at the thought of this unnecessary work.
**Stacking Firewood**
We were greeted with a truckload of firewood, which needs to be stacked under roofs or other shelter to protect it from rain and snow. This will allow it to dry out and be useful in a few months. I took on the task of stacking the wood, reminding myself that “you eat an elephant one bite at a time.” It was a two-day job, but with Lali’s help, we were able to finish it.
**Vineyard Visit**
During my visit to the family vineyard, I couldn’t resist taking photos of the grapevines and making churchkhela. The grapes have been harvested, but the vines still offer beautiful graphic forms for photography. I also captured some stunning close-up shots of blackberry-stuffed walnuts.
**Saying Goodbye**
As we prepare to leave Kakheti and head back to Tbilisi, we’re hoping that our next visit will be longer and less rushed. The new Kakheti highway is extending further east every week, making the trip from Tbilisi only two hours long. We’ll see you again soon!